Kartik Purnima - Dharmanath Bhagwan's magnificient Sawaari in Kolkata

The Paalkhi (Palanquin) and the Samavasaran on which Shri Dharmanath Bhagwan is seated

On the day of Kartik Purnima, something extraordinary unfolds through the ancient streets of Kolkata. A procession nearly a kilometer long winds its way through the historic Chitpur area, carrying with it more than two centuries of tradition, devotion, and an unbroken promise made by a community to honor their faith. 

To understand why Kolkata's Jains chose to create their own grand procession, one must first step back into 19th-century Bengal; a land where religious festivals weren't merely spiritual observances but public celebrations of identity and heritage.

 

Lord Dharmanath

Bengal had long been a land of elaborate religious pageantry. The worship of Devi Durga dominated the cultural landscape, with magnificent idols created each year, worshipped with fervent devotion, and then carried through the streets in spectacular processions before being immersed in the sacred waters. The famous Jagannath Rath Yatra, with its towering chariots of various sizes, drew massive crowds who came to witness and receive blessings from the deities as they passed by.

These weren't just religious events, they were powerful tools of cultural and religious propagation. As different deities' images moved through the streets, people from all walks of life would stop, observe, and learn about the religious traditions and philosophies they represented. Each procession was a moving tableau of faith, leaving lasting impressions on all who witnessed them.

For the Jain community of Kolkata, relatively small but increasingly prosperous, a realization dawned: in this city where religions expressed themselves through grand public celebrations, the absence of a Jain procession meant the absence of their voice in the city's spiritual conversation.

The 60ft towering Indra Dhwajj

Calcutta Tramways employees cutting the tram lines to let the Indra Dhwajj pass by

When the first Jain temples were established in Kolkata : the Tulapatti Panchayati Mandir (Burrabazar) and the Dadawadi at Maniktala, the community faced a crucial decision: which day would best represent their tradition for this new public celebration? The choice of Kartik Purnima was far from arbitrary. This wasn't merely about selecting an auspicious date; it was about choosing a moment that encapsulated the very essence of Jain spiritual life.

Kartik Purnima marks the conclusion of Chaturmas, the four-month monsoon retreat when Jain sadhus and sadhvis cease their wandering and remain in one place, engaged in intensive spiritual practice and teaching. As the rains end and the full moon rises, the monks resume their vihar, their sacred journeying from place to place. It represents both an ending and a beginning, a completion and a fresh start.

But the significance runs deeper still. On this very day, according to Jain tradition, the first Tirthankar Lord Adinath's grandson Dravid, along with Varikhill and crores of other ascetics, attained moksha (liberation) from the cycle of birth and death at the sacred Shatrunjay hill in Gujarat. It was a day when countless souls had crossed the ocean of worldly existence to reach the far shore of eternal peace.

Thus, Kartik Purnima became not just a festival day but a symbolic crowning moment of all the religious activities undertaken during the Chaturmas. It would be the day when the victory flag of Jain dharma would flutter through Kolkata's streets, proclaiming the ancient teachings of non-violence, truth, and spiritual liberation.

Tulapatti Jinalay

The vision was clear, but the means were humble. In those initial years, when the Jain community was still establishing its presence in Kolkata, they lacked the elaborate paraphernalia necessary for a proper procession. The samavasaran, the elaborate divine preaching assembly on which the idol of the Tirthankar was seated and other ceremonial items had to be borrowed from Murshidabad.

The community quickly recognized that relying on borrowed items was neither practical nor dignified. If this procession was to become a lasting tradition; a true expression of Jain identity in Kolkata, it needed its own sacred artifacts, crafted with devotion and meant to endure through generations.

In Samvat 1893 (1837 CE), the Jain community of Kolkata made a decision that would echo through the centuries. They commissioned the creation of a magnificent silver samavasaran on a paalkhi (palanquin): a representation of the divine preaching assembly where Tirthankaras deliver their sermons, surrounded by celestials, humans, and animals in perfect harmony.

The commission went to M/s Hamilton Company, and the resulting creation was nothing short of extraordinary. The detailed accounts preserved in the old registers of the Shwetambar Jain Panchayati Mandir reveal the staggering investment that went into this sacred artwork:

• Silver: 3,539 rupees worth of pure silver formed the foundation
• Labor (making charges) : 1,327 rupees paid to master craftsmen who poured their skill into every detail
• Gold sulma (gold thread): 540 rupees for the golden embellishments
• Wood and iron framework: 100 rupees for the structural support
• Miscellaneous materials: 106 rupees for various other components.

The total expenditure reached 5,282 rupees; a princely sum in 1837, equivalent to many years' income for a prosperous merchant. To put this in perspective the silver alone was purchased at approximately 332 rupees per kilogram , making this one of the most expensive religious artifacts commissioned in Kolkata during that era. Even if we adjust the total amount of 5,282 rupees at 5% average inflation, the current cost to make the same samavasaran would amount to more than 5 crore rupees.

But what makes this samavasaran truly remarkable is not merely its cost, it's the fact that after 188 years, it remains as breathtaking as the day it was completed. The intricate silver work hasn't tarnished into obscurity; instead, it gleams with timeless beauty, as if freshly crafted. Each deity, each architectural element, each symbolic detail remains crisp and clear a testament both to the quality of craftsmanship and to the devoted care with which generations of Jains have preserved this treasure.

The palanquin carried out of Tulapatti Jinalay

If the silver samavasaran represents the community's collective commitment, then the diamond-studded aangi (ornamental coat) of Lord Dharmanath represents something even more extraordinary : the patient accumulation of devotion across decades. This magnificent aangi, adorned with flawless diamonds ranging from 25 to 30 carats, tells a story of patience that modern minds can barely fathom. The diamonds weren't purchased in a single transaction or commissioned from a single jeweler. Instead, they were gathered slowly, painstakingly, over a period of 30 to 40 years.

Imagine the dedication this required: as Jain merchants prospered in their businesses, whenever they came across a diamond of exceptional quality: perfectly cut, absolutely flawless, it might be set aside with a single purpose: to eventually adorn the form of Lord Dharmanath. Year after year, the collection grew, each stone selected with the most exacting standards, until finally, there were enough to create a complete aangi.

This precious aangi was originally in the possession of the Rai Bahadur Shri Dhanpat Singhji Dugar's family approximately 150 years ago, though it had been created by the Kolkata Jain Sangh. Today, it resides in the Shri Jain Panchayati Mandir at Tulapatti, brought out only once each year for the Kartik Purnima procession.

When Lord Dharmanath's image is adorned in this aangi, it's not merely an idol being decorated: it is the physical manifestation of generations of devotion, sacrifice, and unwavering faith. Each diamond catches the light not just with physical brilliance but with the spiritual dedication of those who spent decades assembling it.

Akhand Deepak

A Tableau showing Samavasaran

The old ledgers preserved in the Shri Shwetambar Jain Panchayati Mandir offer us a remarkable window into history. Three account books spanning from Samvat 1883 to 1938 (approximately 1827 to 1882 CE) detail the annual expenses and remaining funds from each year's Kartik Mahotsav procession.

These 46 years of meticulous accounts reveal more than just financial data—they chart the growth of the Shwetambar Jain community in Kolkata itself. As the community prospered and grew in numbers, the income supporting the festival increased proportionally, allowing for ever more elaborate celebrations while maintaining the essential character of the tradition.

Based on these records, we can confidently state that Kolkata's Kartik Purnima Rathyatra has been running continuously for at least 212 years, dating its inception to approximately 1813 CE. Through British colonial rule, through India's independence, through all the dramatic changes that have transformed Kolkata from the capital of British India to a modern metropolis, this procession has continued unabated; the same festival, on the same day, following the same customs and traditions established more than two centuries ago.

In contemporary Kolkata, where religious processions of various communities continue to be part of the city's vibrant tapestry, the Kartik Purnima Rathyatra of the Jains holds a special place. Among the regular processions of  Sikh, Muslim, and Hindu communities, the Jain Savaari stands out for its unique combination of grandeur, meticulous organization, and spiritual authenticity

The journey begins in the later hours of the morning at the Tulapatti Jinalay which comes alive with preparation. The magnificent image of Lord Dharmanath is ceremoniously adorned in the priceless diamond aangi, and placed within the ornate silver palanquin; the very same one crafted 188 years ago. Above the palanquin, a canopy and flags made from pure gold thread shimmer in the light.

Beautiful exhibits in silverware

Charcoal Incense offerings !

The procession on the way to Maniktalla

Devotees thronging for a glimpse of the lord

Exhibit of Airawat Elephant

As the kilometer-long procession begins its journey through Chitpur, the ancient pilgrimage route ; something magical happens. Marwari gentlemen dressed in traditional Bengali-style dhoti-kurtas with "sheherwali" style hats carry the palanquin with reverent pride. The sight of Lord Dharmanath passing through the grand old havelis, some dating back centuries, creates a living connection between past and present.

Rising majestically at the head of the procession stands the magnificent Indra Dhwajj, a towering 60-foot flag pole that embodies perhaps the most remarkable tradition within this already extraordinary celebration. Like a celestial pillar connecting earth to heaven, this towering structure bristles with layer upon layer of flags, each one representing a single year in the procession's unbroken history. Here lies the procession's most tangible link to its past: since that first rathyatra in 1813, one new flag has been added every single year, transforming the Dhwajj into a vertical timeline of faith.

For over two centuries, this practice continued without fail, creating a structure so tall that it posed an unexpected challenge, the tram lines crisscrossing Kolkata's streets had to be cut to allow the Dhwajj to pass. After Independence, when the state government objected to this disruption of public transport, the Jain community didn't simply accept . They took their centuries-old tradition to court and won, establishing their legal right to continue this practice, with the community bearing all costs incurred by the Calcutta Tram Depot, a small price for preserving a tradition older than the tram system itself.

Today, with Kolkata's trams finally retired from service, the wires no longer need cutting, but the Indra Dhwajj still rises just as tall, leading the kilometer-long procession with the same pride it has carried for 212 years, while Lord Dharmanath's palanquin follows at the end, the flag announcing the divine presence that follows in its wake.

A beloved tradition sees devotees performing parikrama (circumambulation) by passing under the palanquin, a gesture of humility and devotion that brings tears to many eyes. The atmosphere becomes charged with spiritual energy as devotees sing bhajans (devotional hymns) and dance with abandoned joy, their enthusiasm so infectious that even bystanders find their feet tapping.

For Bengali residents, the cry of "ঠাকুর আসছে!" (The Lord is arriving!) brings everyone to their doorways, windows, and rooftops. Thousands gather on balconies, on compound walls, atop vehicles, clinging to pillars, even climbing trees for a glimpse of the procession. While many religious processions pass through these streets, there's something about the Kartik Mahotsav that captivates people of all backgrounds. Perhaps it's the elaborate organization, perhaps it's the obvious devotion of the participants, or perhaps it's simply the timeless beauty of the tradition itself.

The procession eventually reaches its destination: the Shri Shitalnath Bhagwan Jinalay, built by Rai Bahadur Badri Das Mookim. This temple, resplendent in its decorations of lights and flowers, welcomes Lord Dharmanath. Here, the moolnayak (main deity) Shri Shitalnath Bhagwan is adorned with its own magnificent aangi studded with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and other precious gems; a sight so breathtaking that witnesses stand transfixed.

The entire journey takes approximately six hours, with some 5,000 devotees joining from various parts of India specifically to witness this remarkable event. For two days, Lord Dharmanath remains here while thousands offer their prayers. The gardens of Dadawadi fill with devotees; among them countless Bengali men, women, and children who come to pay their respects to a tradition that, while not their own, has become part of Kolkata's spiritual heritage. Finally, with the same pomp and glory, Lord Dharmanath is carried back to its permanent shrine at Tulapatti from the Maniktala Dadawadi after two days .

What makes Kolkata's Jain Rathyatra extraordinary isn't just its age or its opulence is its power to connect. In a world increasingly divided by religious and cultural boundaries, this procession serves as a reminder of a time when communities expressed their faith not in isolation but in dialogue with their neighbors.

When Bengali families, Hindu by birth, Bengali by culture, fold their hands and bow their heads as the palanquin passes, they're not merely being polite. They're participating in Kolkata's grand tradition of mutual respect, where the sight of devotion inspires devotion, regardless of the specific form it takes.

Locals awaiting a glimpse of the lord

The Jains who gathered 212 years ago to establish this tradition understood something profound: that true faith doesn't hide itself away but walks openly through the world, inviting others to witness and learn. The silver samavasaran they commissioned, the diamond aangi they assembled over decades, the careful preservation of every ritual detail—these weren't acts of displays of wealth but acts of spiritualism .

Today, if you find yourself in Kolkata on Kartik Purnima, you can still witness this living piece of history. As the  devotional songs fill the air, as the crowds press forward for a glimpse of the Lord Dharmanath, you're not just seeing a festival ; you're seeing faith made manifest, history made present, and a promise kept for more than two centuries.

The Dhwajja made with gold threads

In an age of rapid change and fading traditions, the Kartik Mahotsav Savari stands as proof that what is built with devotion, maintained with care, and offered with love can endure far beyond the lifetimes of its creators. The craftsmen who fashioned the silver samavasaran in 1837 are long gone, but their work continues to inspire wonder. The devotees who spent decades collecting perfect diamonds are forgotten by name, but their act of faith adorns the divine even today.

If you haven't yet been part of this rathyatra, make certain that at least once in your life, you experience the darshan of Lord Dharmanath in this extraordinary procession—where history breathes, faith walks, and for a few blessed hours, the eternal makes its home in the streets of Kolkata.

The decked up Maniktalla Shitalnath Prabhu Jinalay